Maria McManus is a designer who feels things deeply. Disheartened about the current state of the world, she found solace—and inspiration—in a short poem by Emily Dickinson that goes: “In this short Life that only lasts an hour / How much—how little—is within our power.” McManus had not studied the American poet in school (“Literally every writer and poet we studied was a man,” she recalled of her studies in Ireland), so she immersed herself in Dickinson’s world, and eventually came across a white dress that used to belong to the poet. “This is the only garment they’ve ever found that belonged to her and it’s really beautiful,” she said while showing a photo on an iPad. “All of this lace and embroidery detail, the pockets were really pretty—everything was just very thoughtfully put together. So that was the inspiration for the collection.”

There wasn’t a whiff of Victoriana to be found in the racks set up in her Tribeca apartment, however. Rather, she took her starting point as a way to continue her exploration of craft that began with the spring 2025 collection. Lace obviously played a starring role, but she grounded the delicate fabric in practical silhouettes; an easy pencil skirt with a drawstring waist and delicate lingerie-like stitching detail, a ¾ length sleeve blouse with a delicate cocoon inset in the back that created a geometric contrast through the fabric overlay. The lace was also used in the bust of a series of very simple and devastatingly chic dresses inspired by vintage gowns which were once again modernized through the use of fabric. These had a body made from McManus’s favorite Naia Renew twill fabric (made from 60% recyclable materials), which has a shiny finish and a weighty drape that lays gently over the body without revealing what lies beneath the way vintage silk can so often do. She also created a groovy abstract print out of the lace’s negative space, which she used on a shirtdress layered over pants, like modern pajamas.

Electricity was provided by a bold shade of fuchsia that shocked its surroundings, and which McManus seemed to be having fun with. A short structured shift had a mod spirit; McManus smartly paired it with her khaki trousers for a cooler than cool effect. Designers often speak of offering “elevated basics,” but she really delivered this season with her take on the cotton t-shirt: it’s fitted and has charming sleeves that are not quite elbow-length, and is made from a mix of cotton and Naia Renew. Easy enough, except when you touch it, the fabric has a soft velvet-like hand. That’s the thing about McManus, she makes terrific clothes to live in, but their appeal lies in more intangible things; like the time and effort that goes into finding the right materials. Even something as simple as a white t-shirt.